This was just awful. Boring as hell. Some true stories should not be made into movies.

Not a bad movie, but it should be 30 minutes shorter

“If you’re not falling down, you’re not learning” This is a highly underappreciated movie. I never hear anyone talk about this movie. But it’s honestly an excellent surfing movie that’s based on a true story. It’s extremely inspiring and has some great messages in there. The performances from the two leads are really good. I never surfed but I’ve always appreciated the movies. This is one I enjoy revisiting every so often. It deserves to be seen by a lot of more people. If you’re reading this and haven’t seen it then I expect this to be added to your watchlist.

Actually a great movie. I don't feel the time pass and I got caught by Jay story. I'll research more on his story because it looks a great one. Anyway, I recommend it because of the pretty good history.